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Some Reading

There are several measures in the Oklahoma Legislature that benefit entrepreneurial Oklavores:

Earlier this month, Governor Fallin signed the Oklahoma Honey Sales Act, [pdf; SB 716] which exempts small-scale beekeepers from inspection by the state health department. Effective immediately, the legislation requires direct sales and applies to operations that produce less than 500 gallons of honey.

Fallin also signed the Home Bakery Act [pdf; HB 1094], which exempts home bakeries (< $20,000 in sales) from the state health department licensing process. House Bill 1094 provides labeling requirements and defines “prepared food” as “any baked goods except for products that contain meat products or fresh fruit.” This leaves me pondering my jars of rendered animal fats… On that note, violations are a misdemeanor and are punishable by a maximum $100 fine.

A similar bill, the Oklahoma Cottage Food Law [pdf; SB 920] is awaiting a hearing in the House, where the deadline is before adjournment tomorrow. In some ways, SB 920 seems like a better bill, since it allows for jams, candies, pickles, etc., and provides more clarity. However, it requires a $175 permit from the state ag department.

Some good quotes from this long interview with reluctant good-food guru Michael Pollan:
“If you’re not hungry enough to eat an apple, you’re not really hungry.”
“Another good rule is: The first bite is the banquet. That’s a Chinese rule. Every subsequent bite will be less good. It’s never going to get better than that first bite, and once you realize that this is going downhill, you don’t need to have the sixth or seventh bite. I enjoy one bite of dessert a lot.”
“When I first published Food Rules, I said, ‘Don’t buy any processed foods with more than five ingredients.’ Within a year, there was a Häagen-Dazs* ice cream called Five. There was a Tostitos commercial on TV where this woman is buying chips for a party. She picks up a bag and says, ‘There are more ingredients here than I have guests coming to my party.’ And then she reaches for Tostitos, which only has three ingredients. None of them particularly healthy, but only three ingredients. So I added a new rule: Don’t buy any foods you’ve seen marketed on television.”
“Food is ecological as well as sociological—that the way we eat is connected to the environment and to the health of the land.”

My lunch and a robin's lunch (that he dropped and is patiently waiting to devour after my departure)And just for fun: Here’s a shot from my lunch break, where nearby a robin had dropped its lunch and was watching and patiently waiting for my departure.

*Häagen-Dazs, how I love thee!

A Fixture

Creamed greens, vinegar and greens, leftover bacon and greens, greens and caramelized onions. Any which way, and topped with an egg, this is my go-to dish for a quick meal, since I always have eggs, thanks to Rose Ranch‘s egg CSA, and I almost always have greens, be it spinach, kale, chard, or henbit in the yard.

soft-boiledsoft-boiled

Incidentally, Rose Ranch’s happy hens have been laying like crazy. If you want to try a carton ($4/dozen), get in touch with Vicki at vicrose (at) roseranchjones (dot) com.

Preserving Spring

Tuesday night I picked wild onion from my front yard. Or maybe it’s wild garlic? I can’t find a definitive answer. Anyone? Then I made a wild onion/garlic omelet for supper. I cooked it all in a smidgen of smoked jowl fat I scooped from the jelly jar stored in the frig. I am certain said smidgen was responsible for elevating the entire experience. Dregs of boxed wine accompanied the meal.

I think I planted the wild onion/garlic a couple of springs ago after I collected some on one of Jackie Dill’s foraging walks. Or maybe I got it at the Friendship Seed Exchange? So much doubt in this post. But I am certain of this: Freshly mowed wild garlic or onion is one of spring’s most delicious scents, despite the inherent waste.

wild garlicwild garlicwild garlic omelet

I cleaned up after supper (I’m trying to get better about cleaning as I go) and started on wild onion kimchi. But was it onions or garlic? And did it matter? I combined my puzzling odorous bulbs with several bundles of freegan limp green onions and — viola!  — wildish Allium kimchi!
onion kimchi

Purple Polenta

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Polenta is one of my favorite comfort foods. And I’m sick. And tonight was supposed to be Snowmageddon 2013 (although that remains to be seen). So, it seemed only natural… It’s just that, well, purple polenta doesn’t look natural. But that’s what you get when you make polenta with blue cornmeal, which is all I had tonight when I got my craving. I’m not sure it was any good. My taste buds can’t be trusted right now.

Beef Fat and Biscuits

Rendered fat has gone from a kitchen staple to something of a novelty (that might be experiencing a resurgence). As far as I’m concerned, Crisco is the freakish novelty — not fat from free-range animals.

Rendering
I spent the days leading up to 2013 rendering beef fat (tallow) that I got from Rose Ranch. It’s a time-consuming process perfect for wintertime, since it keeps the kitchen warm. This is only about half of the tallow I got from Don and Vicki, so I’m thinking I need to learn how to make candles or soap with the remainder of unrendered fat in the freezer.

I typically get these questions when people learn that I am enthusiastic about fat:

What is rendering?
Rendering is the process of melting fat so that the connective tissue and/or skin can be filtered out. It is homogenous, which makes it more suitable for using in recipes or scooping into a skillet.

Why go to the trouble of rendering animal fats?

There are a couple of reasons I embrace freshly rendered animal fats:
Most of the animal fats I’ve used were given to me. Free is a pretty powerful motivator. And as I’ve said before, my transition from vegetarian to omnivore included an increased appreciation for the whole animal. In addition, I find satisfaction in knowing where my food comes from and how stuff works. I’m not interested in using animal fats from factory farms.
Animal fats have a bad reputation, but I already embrace butter (in moderation) as a cooking fat. Tallow has less saturated fat than butter. I’m no expert, but compelling arguments exist for refocusing toward sugar the societal disdain currently aimed at fat.

What do I do with animal fats?
Lard and tallow are great for deep-fat frying, pastries, and biscuits, and can substitute shortening or butter in some recipes. Schmaltz, or chicken fat, is delicious in gravy, dumplings, and for pan frying. I don’t make these items very often, so luckily fat keeps for a year or so when stored in the freezer.

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Breakfast on New Year’s Eve: biscuits made with freshly rendered tallow; topped with wild blackberry jam.

Bloodshed

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So much of day-to-day life confounds and amazes me. What makes my phone vibrate? How does this text appear as I press the letters on my wireless keyboard? How in the hell did this turn into my shirt? Some people understand this stuff. I don’t. Although, I sometimes wish I lived closer to the answers — that there was less distance between me and these processes that operate in the background. Sometimes my daydreams consist of making this a reality: No middleman. My friends and I are the process. And suddenly life gets a lot simpler because we’ll know how stuff works, or we’ll do without.

I recently had the opportunity to understand how chickens become meat. While some people are compelled to learn the inner-workings of cars, I want to understand my diet. I want to know how milk becomes cheese, how yeast makes bread rise, how wine becomes vinegar. This goal seems attainable enough, especially since a few of my friends are already doing it, and my motivation comes easily.

I didn’t eat meat for about three years during my mid 20s. Finding meat sources from humanely raised animals changed that, since I missed eating bacon and burgers and I wasn’t a very healthy vegetarian. Once I found meat sources that resembled old ways, rather than industrial meat-making machines, I embraced meat with gusto. Getting closer to my food source led to a greater awareness of animal anatomy and waste, in turn leading to interest in all the animal parts, not just the familiar cuts.

Untitled

For years I’ve wondered if I could kill an animal for food, and now I know that I probably could. This experience was lighter in that I wasn’t attached to these roosters. And perhaps it’s even more difficult with mammals. But even so, I fully expected to cry, cringe, and seriously question my meat-eating ways, but that didn’t happen. It was a learning experience I shared with some close friends. And we killed roosters that had an easy life, thanks to their caretaker, Doug.

With some reservations, I decided to photograph the process. I think there is value in the educational nature of the photos, even if it’s only as a memory aid. If you’re interested, you can see more photos here.

Our Daily Bread

http://media.sundancechannel.com/UPLOADS/films/320x240/o/our_daily_bread.jpgThe most powerful food documentary I’ve watched is Our Daily Bread. It offers simplicity in its delivery. It is an opportunity to witness the systems that produce industrial food, without the burden of processing the data and opinions from experts.

Around five years ago I sat alone, horrified, as I watched the quiet footage progress. No narrative thread emerged, but as time elapsed, the weight on my chest grew heavier.

I was reminded of Our Daily Bread recently; when cleaning out my desk I found the notes I jotted down during the film. Some of these notes don’t make much sense; italicized words are my reactions to what I was watching. For what it’s worth, here’s what stood out to me:

hanging pigs
so much water
milk cows on a moving platform
hogs on a train
gigantic greenhouse
hatchery
chicks on conveyor
sorting chicks
injecting chicks
checking for dead chickens in a warehouse
harvesting potatoes
hazmat gear
greenhouse plants – drenching peppers
trolley system for harvesting
glowing greenhouse complex
sperm collection: teasing steer, only to collect sperm
confined prize steers
machine spraying hay like a water sprinkler
pulling a calf out of cow: cut open, C-section
calf sprayed with blue paint and taken away
spraying crops
hen in tractors
apple harvesting
battery cages and egg harvesting: very loud, stressful environment
busing workers to harvest green onions
hog slaughterhouse
nauseous
scale?
impersonality?
coldness?
juxtaposition
good thing I didn’t eat any meat today

food production footage interspersed with women on smoke and lunch breaks
stationary camera
spraying flowers
tilling under dead stalks
lettuce harvest
machinery causing me to wince
shaking the hell out of olive trees, sucking olives off the ground with a ride-able vacuum
salt mining
fish farming: fish sucked up with a big hose
gestation crates
castrating piglets
big monstrous vacuum sucking up chickens from the warehouse
flashback to when there were chicks blown into crates
crates crammed full and shoved closed
crates aren’t deep enough for chickens to stand up
juxtaposition of these scenes with ads
slaughter of cows: covered in shit, skinned, cut in half
didn’t show the feed lot
nauseous
machines and food

What’s the most influential food documentary you’ve watched?

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